Barbershop Evolution: 4 Waves of The Barbershop
Barbershop culture has seen trends come and go for decades, but with generational differences, the influence of social media and a global pandemic, we have witnessed an evolution of the barber industry.
For this blog, we’re going to focus on 4 movements, or ’waves’ of the barbershop. We have seen all four waves, but have not clearly named it. By exploring each wave, we will see how the barbershop has evolved and attempt to predict what’s coming next.
Let’s explore!
1st Wave of the Barbershop: The Classic Shop
The first wave is the classic barbershop. Think walk-ins and cash only or the longest standing barbershop in your city. The owner has been cutting hair for 30+ years and might come from a family of barbers. They specialize in ‘Gentlemen Haircuts’ and will likely give you a straight razor neck shave featuring an original hot lather machine that is also 50 years old.
First wave shops can give you a traditional haircut, but if you are looking for something ‘trendy’ you probably won’t go here. The barber most likely will use an Oster Classic 76 coupled with Andis Masters and clipper over comb.
The shop has a vintage vibe with classic memorabilia on the walls and an ‘antique’ barber pole that can only be moved by two people. The barbers are rocking a classic barber smock, the waiting chairs are directly facing the Koken Barber chairs which means conversation comes easy.
The owner is likely cutting in the first chair when you walk in, but that doesn’t mean the owner handles all the money. Patrons probably pay the barber directly with cash. If you don’t have any, there’s probably an ATM nearby.
Common Signs of First Wave Barbershops:
Walk-ins only
Cash only
Detachable clippers
Gentlemen Haircuts
Old antique barber memorabilia
2nd Wave of the Barbershop: Franchise
We generally associate the second wave to franchises like Supercuts, Great Clips or even Floyds 99. These franchises revolutionized the culture by creating a new haircut experience that crafted a unisex space. These professionals could either be barbers or cosmetologists as the services offered did not include a straight razor. In a culture where the pendulum swung based on gender with the barbershop on one end and the salon on the other, Supercuts and the like created a unisex, a la carte space where men, women, long hair and short hairstyles were served.
Second wave felt very different from the classic barbershop. The waiting area was often separated from the barber chairs by a front desk, so there wasn’t your typical barbershop conversation happening. Patrons put their name down with the front desk assistant so they can go run some quick errands.
Second wave barbers can cut short and long hair styles, going back to the unisex foundations. In order to serve a high volume of patrons, these franchises introduced a standardized, systematic approach to hair cutting where all hair stylists cut in a similar system. This allowed them to serve patrons in a short amount of time without sacrificing ‘quality’.
The waiting area most likely had shelves stocked with all types of products from brands like Paul Mitchell and Crew. This made sense when you consider the pay structure as these franchises commonly paid hourly with bonus-incentives that are awarded based on the amount of product sold or the number of clients you service in a day.
Speaking of barber chairs, there weren’t any. The chairs were most likely salon chairs, no straight razor neck shave or face shave, no hot lather, but likely a shampoo or shoulder massage was offered with ESPN playing on multiple TVs. This catered well to certain patrons actually, which is why these franchises did so well.
Common Signs of Second Wave Barbershops:
Franchise brand with a common name that everyone knows
Service takes less 20-30 minutes
Emphasis on hairstyling products
“MVP services” that offer shampoo or shoulder massage
Professionals are both barbers and cosmetologists
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3rd Wave of the Barbershop: Modern Classic Barbershop
Third wave barber shops evolved from a resurrection of the barber industry. First wave barber shops seemed to be a dying breed while second wave franchise brands dominated. Then came the rise of social media, and with it a rise in new hairstyle trends and interest in barbering. Millennials and Gen Z gravitated towards various types of skin fades matched with longer hair stylee, sometimes inspired by their favorite athletes and celebrities.
These third wave shops are using booking apps and might make you put a credit card down when booking an appointment to protect barbers from no shows or late cancellations. In addition to card, they will take cash, Venmo or even CashApp. They have a prominent social media presence that showcases their portfolio and might have a pretty decent following as well.
This wave is likely to attend barber expos/battles, educational workshops and learn from YouTube tutorials. Barber Expos provided a platform for many to make a name for themselves and possibly opened the door to brand partnerships. Many of these barbers started their career cutting out of their garage and are the first barbers in their family, representing a generation that is ‘following their dreams and passions’.
These shops are the new school of barbering, but give respect to the classic shop vibes. They have barber chairs, the waiting area still makes for conversation while showcasing products, but not like the second wave. The products featured are brands “created by barbers, for barbers.” Clients can’t find these brands at Target or CVS, only the barbershop.
Common Signs of Third Wave Barbershops:
Booking App that takes credit cards
Trendy/social media hairstyles
Significant social media presence
Founded after 2010
Barber only products offered
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4th Wave of the Barbershop: Modern Shop
Inspired by Vidal Sasoon, the fourth wave is emerging as an era of “modern barbering.” Menspire, Gradient, Paradox, STMNT, Glassbox and 12pell are several brands that represent this wave. They are especially interested in discovering shapes and styles that fit the client that are achieved through a deep understanding of shapes, architecture, and shear cutting techniques.
Many barbers are often criticized for not knowing how to cut the top, or longer hairstyles that require shear cutting precision. This fourth wave is filling this gap. On the other side of the global covid-19 pandemic was the return of longer hair styles with skin taper flare. The fourth wave is bringing these styles to life.
This wave is experimenting with various tools and hair cutting techniques. Their lineup represents a hybrid of old school and new school that includes detachable clippers, cordless clippers, cordless trimmers, shavers and razors. Some are offering shampoo, perms, color, facials and straight razor shaves. In many ways, they are utilizing the entire scope of their barber license.
Common Signs of Fourth Wave Barbershops:
$75+ above service prices
Mid to long length hair styles
Color services and design
Skin taper with mid length
Modern mullet
All in all, the barber industry is alive and well. Barber Colleges are thriving with new students and new shops seem to be opening every 6 months in any given city. The future is in the hands of a creative, passionate and driven generation that also respects classic traditions of the barbershop. It’s exciting to consider what the future has in store for our community.
Written by Matthew Mendoza
Licensed barber, educator and consultant based in California. He is passionate about helping barbers pass their barber exam, develop their business and diversify their income. He hosts a podcast, writes a weekly newsletter and offers 1-on-1 consulting.
